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 Modern Bikaner is
the result of the foresight of its most eminent ruler Maharaja
Ganga Singh (1887 1943) whose reformative zeal set the pace for
Bikaner transformation from a principality to a premier princely
state.
The strategic location of Bikaner on the ancient caravan routes
that came from West/Central Asia made it a prime trade centre in
those times. Bikaner stands on a slightly raised ground and is
circumscribed by a seven km long embattled wall with five gates.
The magnificent forts and palaces, created with delicacy in
reddish-pink sandstone, bear testimony to its rich historical
and architectural legacy. Surging lanes, colourful bazaars with
bright and cheerful folks make Bikaner an interesting experience
to explore.
Bikaner lies north
of Jodhpur, its reddish-pink stone rising out of miles of barren
thorn and scrub.
Rao Jodha’s sixth son, Bika
(after whom the city of Bikaner is named), must have found nothing more
than this wilderness when he rode out here in search of greener pastures
to conquer, but he was obviously undeterred. The Rathore clansmen set out
from Mandore the same year that his father shifted his capital to
Jodhpur. Taking with him three hundred zealous retainers, they massacred
the first opposing clan they encountered. Next they came in touch with a
branch of the Bhattis of Jaisalmer who had settled in the region, and
Bika married one of the daughters of the chief. Using this settlement as
a base he was able to extend his sway over the entire region. Having
secured the submission of the Bhattis, and later of the Jats in the
region, he founded his capital Bikaner here.
Although Bikaner was intrinsically linked by blood to the rest of
Rajputana, historically it charted a different course. The
Rathore-Mughal friendship really flourished especially during Akbar’s
reign. After the Maharaja of Jaipur and his son, Raja Rai Singh of
Bikaner was the ‘highest ranked Hindu’ in Akbar’s court. Relations
worsened later thanks to Aurangzeb’s bigotry, but Bikaner holds the
distinction of maintaining its independence for the best part of 500
years. In a sense if Jaipur is called the pink city, Bikaner is no less
with the colour a few shades deeper here, and a great deal more
pervasive. Situated on elevated ground, the medieval city of Bikaner has
all the romance of the Arabian nights. As you approach it, you half
expect a few Rajput princes to come riding at you on their steeds,
brandishing their weapons, challenging you to a duel.The fortifications
of Junagarh include a 5-6 km long crenellated stone wall in rich pink
sandstone. There are five gates and three sally ports, the walls varying
in height from 15 feet to 30 feet.
Music & Dance
 Bikaner is primarily an
agrarian economy, dependent on farming. Cereal crops such as wheat,
barley and millet are mainly cultivated, while the Rajasthan Canal
provides irrigation to the arid town of Bikaner. Bikaner’s folk
traditions, interlinked with Rajasthan’s have developed over the
centuries. Itinerant balladeers like the Bhopas, Bhatts, Charans and
Bandis developed their distinctive styles. In fact Karni Mata, the
Kuldevi (family deity) of the Rathore clan of Bikaner was a daughter of
a Charan (bard). Also, while in Bikaner don’t miss the fire dancers who
keep their audiences enthralled as they tap-dance over red hot burning
coal.
Embellished with colorful
Cloths
Given the
monotony of Bikaner’s barren landscape, it is natural that the people
show a marked preference for
bright costumes. They battle the desolation of the desert
through the vibrancy of their clothes, while the women gather on
festive occasions, in radiant colours and beautiful jewellery.
 Arts & Crafts
From the 18th century
onwards, the tie and dye textiles called bandhani has become an
important craft of Bikaner. Tie and dye odhnis (long scarves worn around
the neck or head by women) are very popular in Bikaner. If you tour the
city, you’d come across dyers dipping fabrics in huge vats to make
exquisite tie and dye odhnis, while in the shadow of ruined fortresses,
the dyers dry hand-block printed fabrics.
Sculpture Work
Bikaner’s contribution to
sculpture can be seen in the very fine examples of jali or stone
tracery, worked on screens and panels on the palaces of the city. Jali
screens sculpted from both sandstone and marble in intricate geometric
patterns are found in the windows of the zenanas, or women’s quarters,
enabling them to watch events unfolding in the court while remaining
camouflaged themselves.
Work of Miniaturised
Paintings
The most significant
contribution of Bikaner in the field of art has been its miniaturised
paintings. An illustration of the art can be found on the walls and
ceilings of Junagarh fort, and inside the cenotaphs of the erstwhile
rulers of Bikaner. Its rich craftsmanship was greatly influenced by the
Mughals and many Mughal painters were encouraged to attend the court at
Bikaner. In fact the Mughal influence on the Rajputs, led to a new style
of painting: the royal portrait. Bikaner because of its intimate
relations with the Mughals was one of the first schools to adopt this
style. Also under the influence of the Mughals, the art of carpet
weaving flourished in Bikaner. In fact, some of the most beautiful
durries, or flat cotton carpets were produced by prisoners of the
Bikaner jail, well known for their skills in carpet weaving.
Woodcarving Work
Bikaner is also
an important centre for woodcarving, for its ornately carved doors and
lintels, and particularly for latticed screen windows. Pidas, or low
folding chairs featuring decorative carving is its speciality.
Other Traditional Arts
Unfortunately some of the
traditional arts and crafts of Bikaner such as doll making, wherein
artisans used to paint wooden figures with brightly coloured paints are
now dying because of lack of official patronage. However the city is
still reputed for its artists. While in Bikaner do not miss the Usta’s
or painter’s paint, complicated designs on the walls of the palaces.
Also well known are the goldsmiths who do minakari (coloured inlay work
in gold or silver), metal and wood crafters. Bikaneri stone carvers, and
craftsmen making traditional Rajasthani jooties (shoes decorated with
beautiful embroidery). Bikaner is especially famous for its minakari on
camel hide, and golden minakari in the palaces of Bikaner. This art form
came to India from Iran via the Mughals, and later assimilated itself
into Indian culture. It was Raja Rai Singh, then ruler of Bikaner, who
brought minakari to the city and accorded it royal patronage. The city
is also reputed for its textile printing, camel hide kupis (containers)
and lamps, and you will even find table lamps shaped in the form of an
ostrich egg. Bikaneri lois (woolen shawls) and namdas (heavy rugs) do
credit to the artisans who construct them. The Urmul Trust, a voluntary
organisation is trying to revive some of these traditional arts.
Ikarer's delicacies and Bikaner is also a city well known for its
culinary delights. The tastiest is a savoury
called bhujia, sold in the Bhujia Bazaar. Bikaneri sev (biscuits made of
flour), papad, rasgulla (cottage cheese balls cooked in syrup), supari
(areca nuts), and misri (sugary substance) are also much sought after
throughout northern India.
Fairs & Festivals
 Bikaner’s cultural
heritage is essentially indigenous as the harsh topography and climate
makes frequent cultural intercourse with neighbouring regions difficult.
But, despite the hardship, the people have developed a spontaneous
capacity to happily observe festive occasions. The festivals celebrated
in Bikaner are Shitla Ashthmi, Gangaur, Navratri, Ram Navmi, Akshya
Tritya, Sawni Teej, Bhadva Teej, Deepawali, Makar Sankranti and Holi.
Kolayat fair, Shivbari fair, Jetha Bhutta fair, Ramdeoji Fair, Dusshera
fair are the main melas. Most of them are celebrated all over the
country, and we shall restrict ourselves to discussing those events
which are exclusive to Bikaner.
Akshya Tritya
The fair is the foundation
day of Bikaner, it naturally has special significance in the erstwhile
state. On both the days of Dwitia and Tritia, (literally meaning second
and third) a pudding of wheat, moth and bajra (millet) is cooked in the
households of Bikaner. A syrup of tartaric and jaggery is made. Ghee
(clarified butter) is served with the food. Being an auspicious day,
students are made to worship their slates (writing boards) and take
earthern vessels filled with potable water for going to school. and
while all over India kites are flown on MakarSankranti, in Bikaner they
crowd the skies on Akshya Tritya day.
Camel Fair
 Bikaner is really camel
country, with the city famous for its bestriding humped creatures all
over the world. The camel fair is a dazzling spectacle of camel
perfomances held every year in January. Should not be missed if you are
in the area, it is an experience to remember. Camel races, camel
acrobatics, camel dances and even a camel milking competition are part
of the festivities. The next fair will be around 20-21 January 2000.
What to see
Junagarh Fort:
Revel in the architectural splendour, as you take an
intimate look at this imposing fort, built by Akbar's
contemporary Raja Rai Singh. Within the fort are thirty seven
palaces, pavilions Suraj Pol or the Sun Gate is the main
entrance to the fort. The palaces worth visiting are Chandra
Mahal, Phool Mahal and Karan Mahal. The palaces, exquisitely
built in red sandstone and marble are ornate with mirror work,
carvings and paintings. An array of kiosks and balconies
embellish the fort at intervals, breaking the monotony. A museum
with valuable miniature paintings and rare antiques is also
located in the Junagarh Fort.
 Lalgarh
Palace: The magnificent
fort in red sandstone, a fascinating juxtaposition of the
Oriental style and European luxury that leaves you truly
mesmerised. Designed by Sir Swinton Jacob for Maharaja Ganga
Singh almost -90 years ago, this is an extraordinary monument.
The palace has a billiards room, a library, a cards room and a
smoking room. Belgian chandeliers, cut–glass ornaments, oil
paintings and lamps add to its charm.
Bhandeshwar Jain Temples: (5 km) Beautiful 16th century Jain
temples, dedicated to the 23rd Tirthankar Parshvanathji.
Excursions
Bhand Sagar Temple 5 km, Camel
Breeding Farm 10 km, Devi Kund 8 km, Gajner Wildlife Sanctuary
32 kms, Deshnok's Karniji Temple 33 kms.
Transportation
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Air :
Nearest Airport is Jodhpur 240 kms.
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Rail :
Bikaner is connected by rail with Delhi, Jaipur and Jodhpur.
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Road :
Bikaner to Delhi 949 km, Jaipur 316 km,Jodhpur 240 km &
Jaisalmer 330 km.
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